I perhaps have spent too long trying to articulate the instinctive sense of ‘difference’ I see in dark academia when compared with the other two styles. I seem to recall some meetings ago you mentioning that dressing well is so often associated with those of a particular social status and even political alignment, and I don’t think that it is any coincidence that the names of those styles which you note have something of a ‘pedigree’ take their names from the elite Ivy League universities and the private preparatory schools designed to ferry wealthy students into them.
Dark academia, I agree, is a ‘democratisation’ of those distinctive styles once exclusive to the upper and upper middle classes. I have met many people who have taken up this style of dress as a means of attaining the status that so often comes with it. I hope you won’t mind me using you as an example, but I see dark academia in part as the effort by those such as yourself to emulate parts of the aesthetic of Ivy and Prep but without also emulating the social status and privilege that comes with it. What draws me to your content is your effort to open the door to dressing well to all who may wish to do so, and where others would point to exclusive and unaffordable designers, you instead point to charity shops and affordable brands to put together one’s wardrobe.
However, I think dark academia has something more to it. I think beyond simply the democratisation of a once exclusive aesthetic, in some regards one could see it as a rejection certain aspects of modernity and the invention of something wholly new. The love, as you put it, for looking like a ‘sexy history professor’ and studying the liberal arts. The attraction to reading classic hardcover books in an old stone building with ivy-covered walls. The romanticisation of universities such as Oxford on this side of the pond or the likes of Yale over in the States. In all of that there is a yearning for the historic and traditional and in that there is a yearning for aspects of the typical ivy and prep lifestyle while rejecting the aspects which signal privilege, like opulence and networking sports. I would not wish to make presumptions about your own background, but I myself come from a working class background in the North West of England. I’ve still yet to embrace fully the manner of dress typical of what has become known as dark academia as it’s a big step to finally take, but the attraction of the aesthetic is principally the equal rejection of both the modern ‘shorts and t-shirts’ I was born into and the privilege and elitism that is associated with the older, more established styles.
I think it’s a very intriguing emergence, and I really appreciate that my attempts to open the door are being communicated. With my association to Dark Academia, what I really want to do is open the door not only to a sense of style, but ideas regarding quality and longevity, which I think are so vital.
I like to look at dress as a tool which lends us some agency over how we feel, and are perceived. I think owning quality garments makes one feel wonderful.
With the factor of democratisation, my concern is that those just starting out might be drawn to fast fashion. The nature of fast fashion is that they can turn designs around so quickly to meet trends, they can cater to the growing popularity of these styles, in an affordable manner, but ultimately one which sacrifices too much regarding quality and ethics. This is particularly why I want to focus in on charity shops, on buying second hand, on the brands which once acted as pillars of these styles, but now having faded into relative obscurity have become accessible. Once you substitute fast fashion garments for second-hand, natural fibres, Dark Academia becomes a very special style of dress.
It took me four years to go from jeans and t-shirts to where I am now, by sharing some of the lessons I learnt I’m hoping I can accelerate that process for others. Helping them to find a style of dress that unlocks something newfound, but it still takes time, it takes time to build up a wardrobe and to learn how one like clothes to fit. The other day an excellent article went up on Menswear Musings, taking on video content that suggests the presence of some sort of fashion starting line, I’ll link to it below.
Thanks for contributing such insightful and articulate thoughts, I’m glad you enjoy the articles. :)
I perhaps have spent too long trying to articulate the instinctive sense of ‘difference’ I see in dark academia when compared with the other two styles. I seem to recall some meetings ago you mentioning that dressing well is so often associated with those of a particular social status and even political alignment, and I don’t think that it is any coincidence that the names of those styles which you note have something of a ‘pedigree’ take their names from the elite Ivy League universities and the private preparatory schools designed to ferry wealthy students into them.
Dark academia, I agree, is a ‘democratisation’ of those distinctive styles once exclusive to the upper and upper middle classes. I have met many people who have taken up this style of dress as a means of attaining the status that so often comes with it. I hope you won’t mind me using you as an example, but I see dark academia in part as the effort by those such as yourself to emulate parts of the aesthetic of Ivy and Prep but without also emulating the social status and privilege that comes with it. What draws me to your content is your effort to open the door to dressing well to all who may wish to do so, and where others would point to exclusive and unaffordable designers, you instead point to charity shops and affordable brands to put together one’s wardrobe.
However, I think dark academia has something more to it. I think beyond simply the democratisation of a once exclusive aesthetic, in some regards one could see it as a rejection certain aspects of modernity and the invention of something wholly new. The love, as you put it, for looking like a ‘sexy history professor’ and studying the liberal arts. The attraction to reading classic hardcover books in an old stone building with ivy-covered walls. The romanticisation of universities such as Oxford on this side of the pond or the likes of Yale over in the States. In all of that there is a yearning for the historic and traditional and in that there is a yearning for aspects of the typical ivy and prep lifestyle while rejecting the aspects which signal privilege, like opulence and networking sports. I would not wish to make presumptions about your own background, but I myself come from a working class background in the North West of England. I’ve still yet to embrace fully the manner of dress typical of what has become known as dark academia as it’s a big step to finally take, but the attraction of the aesthetic is principally the equal rejection of both the modern ‘shorts and t-shirts’ I was born into and the privilege and elitism that is associated with the older, more established styles.
I think it’s a very intriguing emergence, and I really appreciate that my attempts to open the door are being communicated. With my association to Dark Academia, what I really want to do is open the door not only to a sense of style, but ideas regarding quality and longevity, which I think are so vital.
I like to look at dress as a tool which lends us some agency over how we feel, and are perceived. I think owning quality garments makes one feel wonderful.
With the factor of democratisation, my concern is that those just starting out might be drawn to fast fashion. The nature of fast fashion is that they can turn designs around so quickly to meet trends, they can cater to the growing popularity of these styles, in an affordable manner, but ultimately one which sacrifices too much regarding quality and ethics. This is particularly why I want to focus in on charity shops, on buying second hand, on the brands which once acted as pillars of these styles, but now having faded into relative obscurity have become accessible. Once you substitute fast fashion garments for second-hand, natural fibres, Dark Academia becomes a very special style of dress.
It took me four years to go from jeans and t-shirts to where I am now, by sharing some of the lessons I learnt I’m hoping I can accelerate that process for others. Helping them to find a style of dress that unlocks something newfound, but it still takes time, it takes time to build up a wardrobe and to learn how one like clothes to fit. The other day an excellent article went up on Menswear Musings, taking on video content that suggests the presence of some sort of fashion starting line, I’ll link to it below.
Thanks for contributing such insightful and articulate thoughts, I’m glad you enjoy the articles. :)
https://open.substack.com/pub/souvenirjacket/p/there-is-no-starting-line?r=2lcfp4&utm_medium=ios&utm_campaign=post
As someone who's been trying to experiment with ivy looks in his personal style, this was so helpful and a great read. Thanks for this one Callum.
You’re very welcome. I’m glad I could help, and I’m looking forward to exploring more as we go forwards :)