You Probably don’t Need a New Overcoat
But here is what to look for if you do
After their shoes, and possibly their watch, an overcoat is likely the most expensive item in the wardrobe of the well-dressed individual, if they live in a clime for which one is required. Justifiably so, it is so large and visually dominant. Such is the case though, that due to this cost there must be a great deal of consideration made when acquiring one.
The first consideration being, do you need one? That is to say, you almost certainly don’t need more than one. This is not a piece that needs regular washing, nor does it receive particularly harsh wear, such that a rotation would extend its life, and further, there is very little expectation of anyone to own more than one coat. If you have one, that you like, another one ought to be far down the list of priorities, even if you’ve had yours for a long while, a replacement probably isn't worth it.
If, however, you really don’t care for yours, or are yet to acquire one, here are some options.
Vintage Aquascutum Balmacaan
The Balmacaan is a classic overcoat style, and Aquascutum produced some of the very best through 20th century. This is what I wear, mine is grey, a neutral colour maximises styling possibilities. It’s oversized too, this is a party trick of the balmacaan, the unconstructed raglan shoulder makes it so that you can size up without looking like David Byrne, in fact I’d recommend it. Going bigger ensures it will fall below the knee, which makes for a more impressive silhouette.
With a bit of searching, these can be had for under £100 in the UK, and for your investment you’ll be getting a coat which you can write into your last will and testament. Even if it isn’t a balmacaan, any overcoat from aquascutum is an excellent choice.
Army Surplus Greatcoat
An even more affordable option is to look towards army surplus. For many years, imposing greatcoats formed part of the uniform for militaries across Europe. It is very interesting to see how each nation’s sartorial traditions are infused into their military dress. The cuts of the modern peacoat and greatcoat are derived from military styles in the early and mid 20th century.
The styles are often double breasted, with set shoulders, so fit is more important, fortunately they also tend to be longer. You might want to look at replacing gold buttons, and possibly removing epaulets or patches, just to keep the cries of stolen valour down, or if you'd rather not wear something too austere.
Great pieces can be had from all corners of the globe, I recommend looking in particular at British and Italian options, but there are also excellent deals to be had on pieces from the former Eastern Block. Choosing a greatcoat over a peacoat gives the same desirable length that can be had from a vintage Balmacaan. They also tend to come in the neutral tones which I champion.
I am looking at releasing a directory of online stores including vintage and surplus retailers soon, so keep in touch.
Annual Ring Herringbone Belted Balmacaan
If you’d prefer not to buy vintage, Annual Ring have released a beautiful wool Balmacaan this year. Available from Olderbest in the UK, an excellent retailer just as an aside, it is a pricier option, in line with the most expensive listings for Aquascutum, but its hard to deny that it is a stunning option.
A balmacaan again, so all of the aforementioned benefits apply, and the brown herringbone wool is a beautiful pattern. The included belt is also a nice touch, and the belt loops are set at a nice high waist, but using the belt is certainly optional. Length wise, this does seem to be suited to the shorter wearer.
Stock is low at the time of writing, but as an investment for the years to come, this may be worth waiting for a restock
Go Thrifting
The best deals on overcoats are not to be found online, I got mine for around £40 in a charity shop. For advice on finding great pieces in charity shops, I shall refer you to the notes of a previous meeting about precisely that. Now is about the time that vintage and charity shops will have their full collection of outerwear out on display. Here, I’d strongly encourage you to look for something made domestically, and the older the better, failing that, 100% wool is a must, even when one is thrifting they must be considerate of this as one of their most significant clothing investments.
The relative affordability of a quality, thrifted overcoat might encourage the acquisition of more than one, I advise against it still. The money you have saved can be put to better use elsewhere.
The first thing to remember is focus on getting one great one, a great one likely means 100% wool, falling past the knee, and in a neutral colour. Black, grey, brown, and beige, perhaps navy or olive, would all be great choices. Also get a size such that a blazer will fit comfortably underneath. Pick something that can stay in you wardrobe for years to come, and get excited each time the temperatures drop low enough for you to bring it out.
Enjoy keeping warm this winter, see you at the next meeting.