The 3+2 Shoe Wardrobe
A Footwear Philosophy and a Few Favourites
I would like to introduce today a concept which works to develop for the user a function-based, five-shoe rotation. A shoe rotation is somewhat of a necessity as well as a nicety, rotating shoes serves to prolong the life of each individual pair. That said, this is not a suggestion that any member of the club goes and purchases five pairs of shoes immediately, as with all matters of fashion this is a process of acquisition which will take place over some years.
3+2 refers to the makeup of the rotation as having three pairs of shoes for solely style related wear, and two pairs which exist for a particular function but can serve also as fashionable pieces. I’ll introduce each shoe type in the rotation, alongside a couple good options within the category. You will note a couple things about my recommendations, firstly they're almost all black leather, that's my personal preference and since I do not wear brown shoes I cannot reasonably speak with authority on them. You will also notice that they are in mid to high price ranges, I would always recommend seeking out a used pair from a more expensive brand over opting for a more affordable alternative new, take them to a cobbler to have them refreshed, resoled if they need it.
Shoe #1: The Urban Boot
First piece is a semi-formal boot of some description. In the past I have worn a Chelsea, but I’m moving away from them now, as you shall see with my recommendations. A boot which is as at home with a suit as it is with jeans makes for a reliable daily driver, one that can stand up to the odd pile of wet fallen leaves or pothole puddle.
My first pick would be the Solovair Astronaut Boot. Built on their 493 last, so a slimmer toe box, but still the great workwear PVC soles that’ll shrug off the grime of day to day wear. They are Solovairs, it is hard to wrong.
I’d opt for the greasy grain, neither too high nor low-brow, and it will age better.
Second Pick is the Fracap Z700, less formal than the astronaut, but still slim and well constructed. A welted Vibram sole promises good weather resistance. Fracap’s recent Knickerbocker collaboration has put them squarely on the map, and for those to the East of the Atlantic, they are surprisingly affordable for handmade footwear.
Shoe #2: The Derby
A derby is an obvious piece. Open lacing or a moc toe keeps them from being too formal, that way they ought not to look out of place with jeans, chinos, flannels. These should function as a heavy rotation with the boots above, such that the lives of each can be prolonged. Something all weather is good because of this, so again I’d opt for a bigger sole, and something Goodyear welted. For the sake of versatility I’d steer clear of brogues.
First pick here is the Paraboot Chambord. A welted apron derby, based on the Tricker’s Heath, simple and beautifully versatile. Functions perfectly in taking one from shorts to separates to a suit. Built like a tank, suitable year round.
Second Pick is the Solovair Gibson. Same great construction as the aforementioned astronaut boot, much more affordable than the paraboots, though not quite as versatile or elegant.
Bonus Third Pick, Paraboot Michaels (or a derivative of). One cannot reasonably invoke the name of Paraboot without throwing a nod to the Michaels, arguably the load-bearing pillar of the moc toe derby’s existence. Unfortunately, moc toes are a big trend at the time of writing, so one might wish for the hysteria to settle and be forgotten, lest they be seen to be jumping on a bandwagon, and then wearing “last season’s hype shoes” in a few months time. Shame, because they’re lovely, though personally I prefer the Chambord for being slightly more formal.
Shoe #3: The Summer Shoe
When the temperatures start rising, the boots are likely to be waned out of the rotation. Coming in to replace them should be in some form a lighter shoe, though if one chooses wisely it might still be fit for all but the grizzliest of winter days. Ivy tradition and versatility say that this should probably be a welted, possibly lug sole, loafer or boat shoe. Depending on clime you could also opt for something more ventilated, like a huarache.
First Pick is the Jacques Soliviere Alexis, certainly not the Weejuns derived loafer silhouette closely linked with Ivy and Prep, for a particular reason. These really are more like a welted Belgian loafer or slipper, because of this they are not only unique, but also arguably functional as an evening shoe, for the maybe two black-tie events one is invited to in a year. The different look is nice too, makes for a bit of separation in the development of modern prep looks, gets one away from the sense of cosplay that can come up with Ivy outfits.
Second pick is the J.M. Weston deck derby, whilst classic boat shoes in brown are ubiquitous, and if they are the object of your desire they can be had from Timberland or Sebago for great prices, black leather options are hard to find. This also presents the opportunity for me to advocate for J.M. Weston, in spite of their perhaps prohibitive-for-many pricing. If the prices are ones which you can personally justify, the quality is outstanding, absolutely a for-life shoe.
Bonus third pick, if it’s the classic Ivy loafer you are in pursuit of, unfortunately these days G.H. Bass is a label to skip. Unless you’re buying vintage, quality is noticeably poor even just trying them on in store. Instead, opt for the Sebago Dan, hand-stitched in Spain and offering the same classic silhouette, with a number of sole options to fit different requirements.
Shoe #4: The Gym Shoe
Now for the function-first shoes. The gym shoe should be a flat-soled, timeless sneaker, something that’ll do lifting or a pickup game, but not much more. I can assure you, if you are looking for a running shoe recommendation you are in the wrong place, have those separate to the rotation, they’re much more a tool than apparel. The aim is to have something in which you can be reasonably active, and which still looks great.
First pick is a vintage German Army trainer. Differing reports suggest they were made by Adidas or Puma. They bear no logo which is troublesome for identification, but handy in the pursuit of timelessness, trainer brands’ popularity swing wildly from year to year, picking something unbranded from fifty years ago is a nice way to stay out of that. They can be had for very reasonable prices either surplus or reproduction, though if you go for the genuine article you are limited to white. A classic which can be worn with athletic wear or prepdom, just tell the truth when someone asks you if they are Margiela Replicas.
Second pick, simple, affordable, classic, Converse Chuck Taylors, there is little else to say. Black or white canvas will pair nicely with sporty and dressy looks alike, though personally I’d keep them away from tailored trousers.
Shoe #5: The Off-roader
To round out, something that can take you from the city to the countryside, again, not a fully-specialist hiking boot, but a piece that offers good support whilst keeping a place in one’s fashion considerations.
First pick is the Solovair Urban Hiker, a boot designed almost expressly for the purpose described above. Black grain for myself, obviously, but a nice finish selection available. Reminiscent of a monkey boot with their stubby toe box, they offer style variation against the urban boot, as well as utility.
Mimicking the urban boot, second pick is from Fracap, this time the Magnifico M120. Available in a suite of soles, finishes and linings, it ought not to be hard to match a pair to one’s wardrobe. Featuring a similar small toe box to the Solovairs, but a slightly lower ankle.
All in, that’s an urban boot, a derby, a summer shoe, a sneaker and a hiking boot, a shoe rotation that can stand up to all but the most extreme situations, and keep one looking well put together whilst facing them.
Have another pick, or a suggestion of how you might alter the philosophy? Please do share your thoughts below:
Prep Club adjourned, see you at the next meeting.