Meeting #14: Golf Derbies, My Candidate for the Ivy Footwear Crown

Nominating a challenger to the loafer

Housekeeping

Thank you for joining me for this week’s meeting. Before we dive into me upsetting Ivy traditionalists again, I’d like to kindly request that, if you know someone who’d enjoy what I get up to here, please invite them to join the club by sharing the publication.

If you missed last week’s Club Chair Bulletin, you can find it here. That’s all, for housekeeping, time to ruffle some feathers.

On Ivy and the Golf Derby

We all know that the Ivy dresser’s footwear of choice is the Weejun, or a derivative thereof. They are an icon, and their development alongside Ivy style, with special consideration of their identity as an American shoe, despite their name and inspiration coming from Norway, means their position at the top is not exactly one which can be disputed. Today, I’d like to put forward a shoe which I believe ought to join the loafer in the hall of fame.

Now, the golf derby does not have a longstanding history as an Ivy shoe, this is not where my argument will exist. I rather see these shoes as an addition being made to the style as it continues in its 21st century development. Particularly, it should be noted, as a result of our rediscovery of Ivy in the West by way of Japan, it is through Japan that I first saw the Golf Derby being worn.

What are we talking about?

Before we go much further, I would like to define what I mean by the golf derby. I don’t often do this, but in this instance I am referring to a very specific style, I’d like to make sure we are on the same page. That which I mean by a golf derby, is a rubber soled, apron toe derby shoe, perhaps the best known example to the modern individual is the Paraboot Chambord, which is believed to be derived from the recently discontinued Tricker’s Heath.

The most defining visual feature of these shoes is that of the apron front, distinctly not a Norwegian/ Navvy split toe, it should be noted. On both the Heath and the Chambord, which I will be using somewhat as a blueprint going forward, this is also punctuated by a raised lake along the seam, though not a pronounced as on the Weejun, it conjures something similar. As a note, this construction can also be described as a “U-tip” derby, particularly in Japan. Later in the meeting I’ll pull together a selection of good examples.

As a point of interest, 19UJ Militaria recently listed a pair of genuine 1940s CC41 Golf shoes, which are perhaps an example of the sort of shoe which inspired the Heath. The apron front construction is clear, though they feature cleats rather than a rubber sole, thus actually functioning as a golf shoe

Making the case

I think the reasons for the golf Derby’s place are threefold. Beginning with the more concrete, aesthetically, I do believe they just make sense. As I’ve just mentioned, the visual language of the raised lake and apron on a derby lends it to sit very nicely alongside the penny loafer. With the derby already serving as a casual leather shoe, the interruption of a smooth, shiny leather front with the lake serves further to suit them to the Ivy wardrobe. What I see here is a derby which is especially at home at the end of a pair of khakis, jeans, fatigue pants, the exact things we like to wear. With apologies for the lack of substantiation to this claim, they just look right with an Ivy look, more right than a different derby.

Just as there is a place for them aesthetically, I think too that they make sense practically. Especially if one resides somewhere, as I do, frequented by rainfall. Personally, when it’s wet I like a rubber sole, something to keep my feet up and away from the puddles, something which can stand up to some wet grass for a shortcut. In short, I have far more confidence in these than I do hard-bottom loafers for when it’s raining. In my shoe wardrobe ethos I go into greater detail on the function of the derby as opposed to the loafer in one’s rotation, I consider it to be the ideal year-round shoe, paired with boots or loafers depending on the season. I see the golf derby as a more robust option to wear with an Ivy look.

There is also a more esoteric notion regarding the defining features of that which we consider ivy style, which I feel makes them a good fit. The sportswear of the 1940s-60s is as much an influence on the style as the tailoring provided by Brooks and Press. Letter sweaters, rugby shirts, the button-down collar. I see here a shoe with sporting heritage, infused with a degree of formality, I see here a shoe that really embodies how I would define Ivy. It is this connection which got me thinking about them in such detail in the first place. As such, I see no better shoe to represent the ethos behind our beloved style of dress

Some Good Examples

I’d just like to to conclude this meeting with a few suggestions for these shoes, and to point out the key details of separation between them. I’ve stuck to Western manufacturers for reasons of accessibility, but be aware there are also some gorgeous examples available from Japanese artisan brands.

Trickers Heath (Discontinued)

As perhaps the closest thing to a blueprint for this style of shoe, it had to be referenced, despite it having recently been discontinued. It is for this reason, however, that one can, if they would like to, obtain a pair of the Heaths at a discounted price from retailers that still have stock. As the blueprint, there aren’t many details to draw attention to, rather we will focus on points of difference from other examples.

Paraboot Chambord

Likely the most widely known example of this style. The Chambord represents a slightly dressier interpretation, as a result of its hidden eyelet reinforcement, it is also a five eye shoe as opposed to the four eye Heath. The Paraboot is rounder in the toe, and features a more prominent lake.

(Bonus: Paraboot Villandry)

On the note of the prominence of the lake, I also wanted to point out the Villandry, whilst not specifically fitting the characteristics set out above, it does make for a more playful choice if one perceives the golf derby overall to be a touch too austere.

Church’s Letchworth

Placed here as it fits between the Heath and the Chambord in its styling (though far above them in price). The Letchworth is not explicitly a golf model, marketed more as a “workwear derby”, but certainly exhibits the characteristics which I have ascribed to the golf derby. By describing it as in-between the two aforementioned, I mean to say that it opts for the more rugged metal eyelets, but is a five eye model, and has again a more pronounced lake stitch.

JM Weston Golf

Most similar to the Chambord, which is interesting when considering JM Weston are another French manufacturer. Rounder in the toe and with the dressier hidden eyelets. Notable for their outstanding quality, but also for the vast colour and material selection when compared to other examples, they are pictured here in green. If, unlike myself, your shoe choices extend beyond black, this extended selection is a nice bonus.

Horatio Norfolk

A comparatively affordable option, the Norfolk elects for a Vibram Eton sole, which provides a slightly slimmer appearance against the other examples presented. Again opting for hidden reinforcements, paired with the slimmer sole I’d posit this as the most formal example I am presenting. On the other end of the spectrum though, Horatio also provide an “adventurer” option with a lug sole, currently only available in white.

Fracap G190 Postman Derby

Circling back to the more rugged look evident in the Heath, the G190s represent a more affordable option for that interpretation of the look. They also exhibit the unique of detail of the lake stitching being done in a contrast colour, matched with the welt stitching, which is a nice touch

.

---

For me, the golf derby represents a more versatile and robust Ivy shoe, something that can stand up year round, if one resides in climes similar to myself. For instances where slush, rain, or city grime make loafers an uncomfortable choice, the golf derby shines through. It looks right at home in the Ivy wardrobe, and with its sporting pedigree it embodies precisely that which we are chasing.