Club Chair Bulletin #16
What’s he been up to?
What’s he been up to?
Thanks for picking up this week’s copy of the bulletin, last week was the one year anniversary of the club, the meeting can be attended here. This week, thoughts on earth vs jewel tones, leather jackets, independent labels and moc toes, so rather business as usual.
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Exploring Autumn Colours
It took me a while for me to make sense of colour in my wardrobe, I had for some time lived almost entirely in earth tones. As such when I arrived at autumn this year, having stepped away from that chromatic space a little, I felt as though I wasn't all that enthusiastic about the traditional autumn palette.
Looking over the outfits I’ve put together this season so far, there is a common colour based thread, which I feel has produced a sense of luxury. “Luxury” feels a little buzz-wordy, we get far too much content online obsessing over quiet luxury, that is to say hopelessly expensive material possessions which look ordinary. I shan’t get on a rant about that now. What I mean to get at is rather the opposite, outfits which look as though they were conceptualised at a luxury level, but are entirely attainable, particularly through attention to colour and fabric.
I’ve been leaning heavily on the combination of jewel tones, rich greens and navies specifically, with cream/off-white. It’s pretty much the oldest trick in the book, but there’s something about the richness of these dark but vivid tones when paired with the antiquity of an off-white which just communicates a sense of reputation. Rich browns have also been very important, so the traditional autumn tones haven’t been entirely banished.
It’s somewhat of a given that as the nights get longer we move into a far more muted palette. Our heavy coats are always grey or beige, since we want them to go with everything. With these dark but still saturated tones, one gets to keep the colours whilst still blending into the season, I suppose.
On the matter of luxury, if one wishes to chase it as an aspect to their outfits, it is perhaps imperative that their clothes are well worn in, luxury equals quality multiplied by time. The single biggest issue with old money and quiet luxury outfits I find is that their clothes look brand new, crispy perhaps. The softening of age is the vitality of luxurious appearing clothes.
Wardrobe Spotlight
Orchard A2 Leather Jacket
Back in Bulletin #12, I lamented the sorry mistake I made in allowing an A2 leather jacket for a rather good deal slip through my grasp. Well, perhaps I have a guardian angel, shortly thereafter I picked up an even lovelier A2 for only a hair over the price of that first listing.
Now, I’m no militaria expert, I can’t tell you with certainty if this was issued, civvie, deadstock, etc. but I can say that it is a truly addictive piece of clothing. It’s difficult not to just toss it on every day. On the topic of aforementioned rich browns, this is sitting at a solid 100% cacao, just shy of black. Having worn it with everything from Bean boots to black tie in the couple weeks I’ve had it, I can say it has fully delivered on my expectation, and made up for the hours of trawling it took to find it.
Vintage Ouragan Fisherman’s Pants
These were a pickup this week actually, in a local vintage store. I’d spotted them a little while back, eyed them briefly and resolved to going back for them another time, another time came around and they’d vanished off the rail. I assumed they’d sold and carried on, disappointed but only as disappointed as one can be over a pair of trousers. However, this week they were back, and once I’d tried them on and confirmed they matched with my generally difficult-to-pair mustard yellow parka, they joined the wardrobe.
They’re a rich jewel-tone green, in line with the autumn colour ethos above, quilted and insulated, so they’re very warm. I’m looking forward to having them aide me both on winter walks and in continuing to take my Navy Blazer to places it really shouldn’t go.
On the Radar
Local_____.
The cap is an accessory for which its abundance makes it rather tricky to navigate. There a million New Eras and 47s knocking around, with just about every logo under the sun, vintage options etc. Manchester label Local (SPACE) carry a simple selection of fitted and snapback options. Their Northern Quarter pieces are a lovely tribute to their hometown, its always nice to see some hometown pride from a brand, especially when its not one of the absolute big names (London, Paris, NY, Milan, etc.) Their logo snapbacks are a nice alternative to the ALD unisphere (the inspiration is apparent) but far more affordable, especially in the UK, and perhaps with a little more small-label hipster appeal.
Other apparel hasn’t expanded beyond sweats yet, but with the help of a good designer, they’ve clearly got the taste and marketing penchant to do some rather interesting work.
Polo launches Michael inspired moc toe
I have to say this is a rather sorry sight, the inspiration behind Polo’s new Jett Moc Toe is about as obvious as it gets. Whilst plenty of labels carry a Paraboot Michael inspired shoe, the dark green tab on these I think tips it over the line for me.
Seeing the use of the Polo Country labelling is intriguing, but ultimately this stands as a baffling move from Polo. It could have been a brilliant collaboration, but instead it comes off as rather more of a slap and dash leap onto a trend. They’re the same price as a decent used pair of actual Paraboots, which will likely smoke these when it comes to quality.
The fact that Polo deems this a worthwhile pursuit perhaps suggests we’re not yet out of the moc toe zeitgeist, as I suggested a few weeks back. Maybe we’re yet to see the full scope of imitation mocs, I hope not, the Michael is such a classic shoe and I think seeing it receive the full fast-fashion butchering might break my heart.
Saint Laurent puts bombers over tailoring
From a big name getting it wrong, to another getting it oh so right. Saint-Laurent’s SS25 shows 80s runway tailoring inspiration, paired with the truly baller move of layering bomber jackets overtop double breasted suiting.
It’s is pretty basic layering principle that pieces get longer as they are layered outwards, for example a cardigan, sport coat, overcoat. If we were judging these looks by common consensus, with the bottom of the suit jacket peaking out, they shouldn’t work, but they do, so bloody well. Very much the two fingers up to tradition that sits at the heart of sprezzatura, classic pieces paired in a way that simply asks “who says you can’t?”
As for taking this off of the runway and into the real world, I’ll be giving it a go for certain. A bold move, sure, but that’s what we’re about here. The best thing about this is despite its somewhat alien nature it’s pretty low-risk to try, the two pieces needed are pretty commonplace in many folks’ wardrobes, and if halfway through the day you decide it isn’t for you, one simply removes the jacket and carries it.
